Dining
Dining in Synanon was one of the central parts of the very long days. It was a small respite from the hard work and treachery for us kids but it was also a bittersweet pill to swallow. Regardless of the facility, the main dining room was where everything from the Morning Meetings to the Nude Weigh-Ins were held (more on that later), usually before the meal, so you had to get through all of that nonsense before you could actually tackle your hunger. The tables were almost exclusively round as the community celebrated the circle in all of its ceremonies and Lazy Susans adorned the center of most like a Chinese Restaurant from a bygone day. In general, the plebeian masses would sit randomly together, while the elite occupied premium tables in the corners with all of the finery of the best white tablecloth restaurant. Dinner time for them included young ladies who sat tableside, waiting to offer their service of fare that was not available to the rest of us. The diversity at the common tables was very rich, as one could be seated next to a recently arrived former addict on one side and a Phd from Harvard on the other. Lively conversations were the norm and as a kid you could pick up a lot during this time. I can’t remember exactly when we were moved up to the main tables as I do recall an era where all the kids sat together. Regardless, most of us never had a chance to sit at the big boys table with their fanfare, but since we never had a taste for it, we never missed it. Occasionally we were subjected to something called “Gracious Dining” where we were forced to sit for what seemed like an eternity, emulating their daily routine, but this was pure torture for us and the food wasn’t at all what they took their time to enjoy.
I have one distinct memory of being in the Shed at the Strip property and seeing a lady who I had not encountered for some time but had been fond of. She was heading toward the food line and although I was somewhat shy, I approached her and gave her a smile and said, “Welcome Home.” She looked at me with a bit of disdain and a lot of contempt, and said, “I am not home, I live at the Home Place,” as if a 13 year old kid was supposed to know the place of residence for each and every member. She turned away to inspect the food line and I remember her face as if were yesterday as she opened the lid to the first steam tray, pure disgust. As I recall, she did not even bother to look at the rest of the line or even get a plate. She had seen the entree and that was more than enough to quelch her appetite. After all, she lived at the Home Place and she was not accustomed to sucking it up and eating the unpalatable food we were given.
The serving style for the masses in the dining room was a buffet line that was positioned directly in front of the kitchen. The line started with the plate warmer and a rack of massive hard plastic bowls. Sometimes an enormous half moon bowl full of half rotten fruit would be at the front as well just to whet your appetite for the practically inedible food to come. In the morning there would also be a giant vertical rotary toaster which never stopped churning. The bread was dense but it was one of the only things that was freshly baked. But only Margarine awaited after the toaster, creating a very strange combination of fresh and fetid. Oh, how we longed for some wonder bread and real butter, but that never happened.
After the plates, bowls and the toaster in the morning came the salad bar, then the hot cart.
At the end of the line you got your drink from large metal vats that contained either Water, “kool aide” and “Syna-milk”. The water was what we stuck to as it was usually from a well and was very satisfying, especially compared with the other options. “Syna-Milk”, as it was called, was Non Fat Dried Milk, reconstituted in very large quantities. I am not sure if this was a government commodity or if we actually purchased it, but it in no way, shaped or form resembled or tasted like milk. It was normally very watered down and sometimes a bit lumpy. There was also a rumor that went around about one of the kitchen workers being caught pleasuring himself into it at one point, so it was definitely off limits. I don’t know if anyone actually drank it, but I certainly never did. The final option was the “kool aide” which was overly laden with saccharine and tasted like you were ingesting some sort of industrial paint stripper, so bitter was it’s taste. We referred to it as either “Orange Death” or “Green Death” depending on the color du jour. It was rumored that Synanon actually donated the “kool aide” powder that was used by the people of Jonestown who eventually added cyanide and drank it in their mass suicide. Our use of that name long preceded the suicide in an eerie prescience.
The chefs and the kitchen staff were gracious, very hard working and sometimes very talented, but their job was like asking Michelangelo to finish the Sistine chapel with an old box of broken crayons which was missing half of the colors. They did their best and they did it with pride, but they were not working with anything close to high quality ingredients. All of those went elsewhere and landed on someone else’s plate. There was a prominent slogan that was plastered on walls which went, “eat what we have or starve.” Of course, that slogan was a great for those at the homeplace eating their gourmet fare; it was not so comforting for us. Yet, like it or not, we ate it because after the days we suffered through hunger was never a stranger.
Synanon always had a lot of mouths to feed, but they never did spend the money required to do it properly. Sure, as I mentioned, the “Old Man” and his court of mostly jesters dined on line caught salmon and anything else they wanted but “we the people” ate whatever we could lay our hands on, and it usually was really really bad. As children, the primary use for our weekly allowance, “Walking Around Money or WAM”, was to buy real milk, cream cheese and crackers whenever we got a chance to go to town. Later, there was the Granny Gorp Store which provided food offerings that we could use to supplement our diets if we had money to do so. Suffice it to say, not a lot of 10 year olds were out there buying Philadelphia Cream Cheese and Wheat Thins on the meager allowance they had, but we certainly were. So bad was the food that we would do anything to get something “normal.”
For the most part, Synanon relied on charitable donations to feed the masses. Anything that was good went to the home place and the stuff they did not want went to the plebs. There was an old tradition in Synanon which followed the street parlance called hustling. Ex addicts were sent out into the world to find companies, farms, ranches or whatever to donate anything they needed to unload. They would tell their story about how Synanon had saved their lives and ask for a donation in order to help save another. Since the commune was a certified 501c3 charitable organization, the donations were deductible, giving the mark ample incentive to unload their overstocks, freezer inventories, past code products and anything else they could not sell in their primary market. The donations ranged from food to clothes and shoes and many other things.
As you might imagine, the Hustlers were so successful the they ultimately brought too much stuff to the doors and a whole new industry was created called Anti-Hustling, later known as Synanon Second Market. The idea was to distribute the things we hustled but could not use to other charitable organizations and it was a great idea. I remember Buckminster Fuller’s name being mentioned in this regard with the quote, “The world is full of the right stuff in the wrong places.” I am not sure if this quote is accurate but that is the way it was told to me. While it was a great idea, the reality is that most of this food “stuff” should have been land filled and not given out to local church groups and other organizations because many times it was nowhere near edible and often far past the reasonable shelf life. The 12 year old Mahi Mahi and the World War II ration biscuits leap to mind as I write this, but there were many other insanely old and incredibly bad things that ended up on our plates instead of the rubbish bin.
At the top of my list in this regard, and one of the things that none of us will ever forget, are the airline dinners that were donated to us by the million. The never ending supply of small white trays were identified only by the “Beef A La Grecque” stamped on the foil wrapper in small black generic type. I still get a bit nauseous just thinking about them. The “meal” consisted of mixed vegetables, mashed potatoes and sliced beef with some sort of sauce. We apparently got so many of them that they were a steady staple on the serving line for longer than I want to remember. They started out serving them in the tray, just heated with the foil still intact and stacked into the steam trays on the large hot carts. As people grew tired and wary of them, they would be opened in the kitchen and separated after they had thawed slightly. The components were placed in hotel pans, covered and heated in the oven in an attempt to make it a little more elegant. Of course, the ruse was not a very good one and the camouflage was easily detected. The “meal” may have briefly conjured thoughts of air travel and distant lands in the beginning, but of course, that feeling did not last very long.
It is important to note that some time during the 70’s refined sugar was banned for Synanon residents. This also included honey. This was a very insightful move on the part of the community as it certainly reduced the cost of dentistry and other health maladies associated with overconsumption of sugar. However, there were very few artificial sweeteners on the market at this time. The go-to for almost all sweetening needs was saccharine. We also encountered sorbital in the sugar free products we were able to purchase in “town” at the time, however, saccharine was used in the “kool aide” and the jello that were ever present on the dining line. Jello was a staple on the Salad bar and it was always some strange neon color. Orange and green were the most common colors with red mixed in some times. I have a very distinct memory of a visitor coming in for lunch one day, surveying the food options and then settling on a huge bowl of jello. Little did he know that it was laden with toxic artificial sweetener instead of sugar. His disgust could not be contained when he shoveled the first heaping bite into his mouth. The reaction was priceless and unforgettable.
One of the few highlights in our weekly routine was Sunday breakfast where “eggs to order” were served. You would go into the kitchen, in front of the stoves and put your name on a sheet, along with your preference for the way your eggs were to be cooked. If you liked eggs, this was a great thing. They were made to order and fresh off of the stove, two things we virtually never had. Eggs were not a rarity, however, they were normally served scrambled in four inch hotel pans and had been sitting in a steam tray for long enough to turn them green on the edges. Sure, a food service guy would come through and mix them occasionally in order to “freshen” them up, but for the most part they were inedible. So, the weekly occasion to have eggs cooked the way you wanted was a treat, that is, if you liked eggs. I have several friends that won’t touch them to this day, traumatized as they were by the Suessian version served almost daily.
In the end, we survived by eating from the Grazing Board and later by pilfering the “granny gorp store” which was run on the honor system. But the store came much later and I actually paid for all of the things I took from there although most of the kids did not. And since I was a paying customer with very little money, almost all between meal snacks came exclusively from the grazing board. That board consisted of a small cart with bread, margarine, peanut butter (if we had it) and yogurt. Over the years there were donations of other things that landed there such as banana puree but mostly it was just the basics. We would get as creative as possible with this meager selection, mixing the peanut butter and yogurt together and then adding any condiment we could find, such as cinnamon or vanilla, but there was only so much we could do.. I still distinctly remember the taste of peanut butter and margarine sandwiches which may have been awful in retrospect, but there were no other options. Since there was no sugar available and we all really did not like “Sweet n’ Low”, our concoctions were not very tasty in the traditional sense, but we ate them anyway because hunger is a powerful motivator. The bread and yogurt were actually fresh and made daily but those are not things kids really want and the fact that there were so few other options made one quickly tire of them. Occasionally there was some fruit around, but it was normally the half rotten, donated variety that turned most of us off to fruit for a lifetime. Sometimes there was also jello but this too was something we never ate as it was bright neon color and laden with saccharin as mentioned previously. Naturally ,this was one reason we spent all of our allowance, meager as it was, on foods that were not available to us otherwise, or simply stole from the gorp store without remorse, as many later did.
An interesting addition to our diet, which was a rare exception, and very strange, was Sugar Day. Since we were on a permanent sugar ban (which I later found out many cheated on), any opportunity to eat sugar turned into a literal mind numbing, stomach churning day which left one reeling for some time. The Sugar Days normally came in the form of an extravagant and endless ice cream bar. By endless, I don’t mean variety, rather that we could have as much as we wanted, which of course was the problem. On these days, some fine soul would drive into town and stop at Swensons, bald head and all, and buy God knows how many tubs of ice cream. Mostly they were French Vanilla from my memory. There were normally chopped peanuts, hot fudge and hot caramel to load up the bowls with. Now the reason for the ice cream days was normally as a “celebration” for something or another. Perhaps it was a legal victory or good news on another front, but in reality we did not care. For us it was a full on eating frenzy, the likes of which could be shown on the Food Network on that Man vs. Food show. The old adage, “never eat anything bigger than your head” comes to mind when I recall the huge plastic Bolta bowls overflowing with ice cream and toppings. We would repeat this madness until we just could not eat anymore and then we would lay around, sick as a dog because we simply couldn’t move and our bodies were not used to either milk or sugar. We literally ate ourselves into a food coma, which was followed by a serious hangover. In retrospect I imagine this was just another one of those ways that the powers that be tried to ingratiate themselves to us. By creating a severe restriction or shortage, they could appear the hero when they gave us a reprieve, if only for a fleeting moment. Chuck knew the power he wielded with these simple manipulations of the “norm” he had created and he used them wisely.
Other things that I remember on the positive side were the Mint Chip ice cream donation in Santa Monica, along with the Dr. Pepper. This was prior to the No Sugar rule, so we enjoyed these with abandon. Somehow I never got sick of them and have an affinity for both to this day.
We briefly had a donation of Jeno’s frozen Pizza during my time at Walker Creek. It was not served often, but when it was we ate so much of it that I can still taste the frozen pepperoni to this day. Another cool thing that we always had around was Crystal Brand Hot Sauce from Louisiana. I assume it was a donation because it was ubiquitous, although I am not sure. Perhaps they purchased it all of the time so people could lather up the terrible food with something that tasted good. I have always kept this in my pantry as an adult and as a food guy I am still impressed with it’s three simple ingredients. My younger daughter has also grown to love this. One time in NOLA I actually had a waiter apologize to me when I sat down because they did not have any Crystal on hand, demonstrating the true magnificence of this nectar to the people of Louisiana.
When I left Synanon I obviously knew nothing at all about food. My connection with it consisted of the old gulp and belch variety, consuming whatever to satiate the hunger and then moving on. Even though the experience of Gracious Dining should have taught me something, it mostly showed me that spending endless time with horrible foods was way way worse then just slamming it down and moving on. When I left Synanon at age 17, I did not have any money to speak of and often resorted to stealing food just to eat (for which I have no regret). When I finally got my own apartment, I began the long process of learning to make meals for myself. One of my first experiences was inviting a girl over for dinner and spending two weeks’ food budget on the ingredients only to ruin every single part. From there I was determined to learn not only how to cook but how to nourish one’s self and soul. I have found that food, drink and the company of fine people are the most rewarding moments one can experience in life. The old adage of breaking bread with someone means more to me than most as I knew nothing of this concept in the commune. These days my monthly food expenditures are much larger than my mortgage. I literally spend most of my monthly budget these days in order to entertain my friends and family, and of course any stranger that is lucky enough to be around.
There are many in the world that lack even basic nutrition so perhaps this diatribe seems trite. And yet, the experience of meals with family and friends is one of the most important things that one can pass along to our children. For me, I can barely remember even one single time that I had a meal with my parents and that is the real shame. For, while the food may have been awful, it is the love and togetherness that one can experience during a meal that was sadly lacking. As a father I have been very emphatic that we sit down as a family every day to eat together, be together and discuss all things from shoelaces to Aristotle. Meals are where the family really is a family and where the sharing and learning and back and forth foster the spirit that elevates each and all. This is one more of the lessons that I learned from my wife as I learned about Family and something that I am certain my children will cherish and remember for a lifetime. It is also one that Synanon completely missed in their effort to bring people together and educate the children for a prosperous and happy future. It really is not about the food, per se, it is about being together.